If the forced-air system in your home is equipped with inexpensive fiberglass filters, you should upgrade them to high-efficiency media filters. Standard room air conditioners usually do a pretty good job of filtering pollen, ragweed and spores if you keep the coils on the unit clean and replace the filters as frequently as indicated by the manufacturer.

Adding an air cleaner. If cleaning, ventilation and routine filter maintenance on existing systems don’t provide relief, consider an air cleaner. There are three types: media, electrostatic and hybrids. Media filters use physical barriers (media) and coatings to trap particles. The finer the media and the greater the surface area, the better it is at trapping small particles. Electrostatic filters use charged plates that create an electrical field to trap particles. Hybrid filters use a combination of these technologies. Ion generators are in a category of their own and should be avoided.

Filter facts. Although a new federal system for testing the efficiency of air filters will be finalized sometime this autumn, many manufacturers are already using it. These Minimum Efficiency Reporting Values (MERV) test how well filters remove small particles from the air; the higher the MERV number, the more efficient the filter. “This rating is really useful for comparing medium- and high-efficiency filters,” says H.E. Barney Burroughs, chairman of the American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Engineers committee on the new standard. “The rating tells people what the difference is between filters, and takes away a lot of the smoke and mirrors of the manufacturer’s claims.”

Most of these more efficient filters can be used on any forced-air system, but may require some retrofitting. Have your heating and cooling contractor make sure the new filter won’t reduce airflow to a dangerous level. You won’t be as comfortable, and you could overtax the system. This potential airflow reduction, called pressure drop, should be considered when the filter is new (initial pressure drop) and when it’s full (final pressure drop).

It’s uncomfortable and even dangerous to live in a house where the air either makes you sick or aggravates allergies and asthma. But with a few simple steps you may be able to cut down on the irritants in your home—and breathe a sigh of relief

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If you’re like most Americans, you spend much of your time indoors. Have you ever stopped to think about whether the air you’re breathing at home is healthy? When you’re at home do you frequently have headaches or feel nauseous or tired? Do you feel better when you leave the house? If you have these symptoms, your home’s air quality may be the problem.

Moisture and biological (like molds, mildew and dust mites).
Sources include excessive humidity levels, poorly-maintained humidifiers and air-conditioners, inadequate ventilation and animal dander.

Combustion products including carbon monoxide.
Sources include unvented fossil-fuel space heaters, unvented gas stoves and ovens, and “backdrafting” from furnaces and water heaters.

Formaldehyde.
Sources include durable press drapes and other textiles, particle-board products such as cabinets and furniture framing, and adhesives.

Radon. This is a radioactive gas from soil and rock beneath and around the foundation, ground water wells and some building materials.

Household products and furnishings. These include volatile organic compounds from paints, solvents, air fresheners, hobby supplies, dry cleaned clothing, aerosol sprays, adhesives and fabric additives used in carpeting and furniture.

Asbestos. Most homes more than 20 years old are likely to have asbestos. Sources include deteriorating, damaged or disturbed pipe insulation, fireproofing or acoustical material and floor tiles.

Lead. Sources include lead-based paint dust from removing paint by sanding, scraping and burning.

Particulates. Sources include particles from fireplaces, woodstoves, kerosene heaters, unvented gas space heaters, tobacco smoke, dust and pollen.

Environmental tobacco smoke. A mixture of smoke given off by the burning end of a cigarette, pipe or cigar, and the smoke exhaled from the lungs of smokers.

Remodeling byproducts. Remodeling can provide the disturbance that releases such materials as asbestos, lead, formaldehyde and other hazardous materials.

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Your first priority is choosing the system that’s the right size for your house. Bigger isn’t necessarily better: A unit that’s too big not only costs more to buy, but it will also cost more to operate. Indeed, a system that’s not properly sized wastes energy and wears out equipment sooner because it will go on and off more frequently. And in humid climates, a system that’s the wrong size can turn a home into a mold farm because moisture will form on the overly cold surfaces.

Optimum efficiency is the next most important feature to look for. All A/C units have a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER), which is based on government standards. Units typically range from a moderately efficient SEER of 10 to the most efficient 17. Choose one within that range that’s appropriate for your climate and electric rates.

Also look for a 10-year parts warranty on the compressor, a 5-year parts warranty on all electrical components and a 12-year unconditional warranty against refrigerant leaks. Be sure the entire unit has at least a 1-year parts-and-labor warranty. Finally, remember that even the best unit can be damaged by an incompetent installer. Hire only an experienced, qualified installation company.

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A dozen simple things you can do to cut down big heating bills

If you feel a shiver each time you open your utility bill, your house may be too cold. More likely, however, you’re paying more than you should to heat it. In either case, you can make changes now that will make your home more comfortable and save you money.

These aren’t big projects like adding attic insulation or replacing your windows—save those for later. They’re easy-to-do and inexpensive techniques. The most complicated will take a weekend afternoon, and many take little time and don’t even require the purchase of materials, only changing a habit or two. Others can be done for as little as $10. We’ll take a look first at the obvious stuff and then at more specialized—but still simple—energy-saving techniques.

1. Lower the Thermostat
2. Install a Programmable Thermostat
3. It’s Closed-Flue Season. Minimize Those Romantic Fires
4. The Spin on Ceiling Fans
5. Move Furniture Away From Vents, Registers and Radiators
6. Stop the Draft, Close the Door
7. Quick-Seal Windows
8. Install a Door Sweep
9. Work the Drapes
10. Change Your Furnace Filter
11. Adjust Your Water Heater
12. Defeat Rapid Cycling

FREE ENERGY-SAVING INFO
Need more guidance on saving energy? The 36-page “Energy Savers” is available free from the U.S. Department of Energy. It features more than 100 easy and practical energy-saving tips. Get the booklet by calling 800/363-3732, or point your browser to www.eren.doe.gov.

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